Basics .. Core concept need to be known behind every action and in this New year, we here by starting it. Ranting over some our favorite interests, styles and passion. Thus, the first post under basics is the “DSLR Photography”
Photography!! Personally, we feel everything should be captured virtually over pics or in memories. Seizing and reminiscing is really important in our lives. Above that, pictures and the moments while capturing those memories could be really special with loved ones more 😉 Here you go for the basic information needed to be known before buying a DSLR.
Why DSLR Camera? Why not Point & Shoot Camera? To simply cut it out, better quality pictures in less quantity of time with less practice is possible over DSLR only. Since we all have our smartphones, pics captured with our 13mp/8mp smart phones doesn’t make much difference with those pictures captured from Point & Shoot Camera.
DSLR Camera (Digital Single Lens Reflex Camera) – This term makes all of us crazy, these days every one is holding it and making so much gala over it 😛 Lets begin and give a try over it soon 🙂
(Perfection needs in every aspect and basics are the foundation for the perfection)
Exposure triangle includes three regions: Aperture, Shutter speed and ISO. All those three combines to give a perfect outcome 🙂
- Aperture : It is the diameter of the lens through which light is entered. Variation in the aperture, focus of the light varies as if when the shutter is opened, the larger the aperture – more light passes through.
If someone is supposed to capture a landscape covering far away hill or something, then you should suppose to opt low aperture which eventually falls under large aperture capturing whole scene with utmost focus on the foreground and gradually decreasing over the background.
Similarly if something has to be captured at a shorter distance, it would be through high aperture and the subject is in sharp focus while the background is soft and out of focus.
Shutter speed: The shutter speed, measured in seconds (or more often fractions of a second), is the amount of time the shutter stays open when taking a photograph. The longer the shutter stays open, the more light passes through to the sensor to be captured.
Shutter speeds are selected depending upon the kind of picture we are intended to capture. Tiny shutter speed should be opted for fast moving objects and vice versa. For example: (1/4000) for sports photography to really slow (30 seconds) for night photography
ISO : This is the behaviour of the camera’s sensor to the light. Higher range of ISO (ISO 6400) is needed where less light is required likely on the sunny mornings this will give you images of the highest quality, with very little grain (or noise)..
And low ISO (ISO 100) is needed on dark evenings. As you turn the ISO number up, you increase the exposure but, at the same time, the image quality decreases; there will be more digital noise or “grain”
Shooting Modes : Full-Auto, Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Speed Prioirty, Manual Mode are few modes in shooting.
Average – The camera will assess the tones across the entire image form corner to corner, and expose the scene to 18% grey from that assessment.
Centre-weighted – The camera weights the exposure reading for the area in the centre of the viewfinder that can total up to approximately 80% of the scene, ignoring the extreme corners of the image.
Spot metering – The camera will use a very small area of the scene, typically a small circle in the centre of the viewfinder that totals approximately 5% of the viewfinder area. It will make the assessment of dark/light tones in this area and expose the entire scene to 18% grey, from that assessment.
Metering modes : These are to tell your camera how you want it to look at a scene.
When taking a photograph, using any form of automatic exposure calculation (e.g. aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, auto-ISO etc) the camera always tries to calculate an ‘average’ exposure. It will asses the entire scene, both light and dark areas, and determine the exposure so that all of the tones within the entire image average to 18% grey – called the ‘middle’ grey. This is known as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photograph the resulting image will always appear darker than you or I see it.
Similarly, if you point your camera at a really dark scene, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it.
The scene is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed. However, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered.
The photo below was taken on spot metering mode but, if you were to take the same photo using evaluative mode, you would end up with a completely different exposure.
Exposure: Generally found on a small +/- button near the shutter, this is one of the most useful functions to learn how to use. It allows you to either increase or decrease the cameras default meter reading to account for the actual brightness of a scene. If a scene contains primarily bright tones and is being rendered too dark, for example, a bright white snow scene (that will typically be reduced to 18% grey by the default metering system), you can apply positive exposure compensation to let the camera know that the scene should be lighter than middle grey.
For beginners Nikon D3300 is suggested. It will come with 18-55mm lens and is slightly costly @25000/- in Amazon
Source: Above information is collected in Google and is subjected to copyrights. No intention in infringement of the data and pictures used above.